So Good Magazine # 32

"So Good" is a biannual publication in english aimed at professionals of sweet and savory pastry, the chocolate and ice cream industry, as well as the world of dessert in general.

Crossing without a second thought

In all our interviews, we ask chefs about future trends. We want to know what is to come, how our beloved pâtisserie will evolve in the coming years. In all cases, without exception, you speak of a progressive reduction of sugars and fats, of a more sustainable pastry, of an elimination of waste and of a greater and better use of raw materials... There is also a general consensus in pointing out the preferences of the current consumer towards baked products over refrigerated products, doughs over mousses, something that we have been observing for some years now. And more recently, although we fear that it is likely to consolidate, chocolate seems to be becoming less important, due to the worrying and exorbitant rise in cocoa prices worldwide. In addition to the above, with which we fully agree, we note an interesting path that more and more chefs, both pastry chefs and cooks, are exploring, namely the blurring of the borders between the savory and sweet universes. This is not something new. Ferran and Albert Adrià already dared to confuse both worlds as part of their avant-garde way of understanding cuisine. Now some see that ‘savory’ can complement a sweet offering by bringing unknown nuances, and ‘sweet’ can be a factor of full satisfaction for the diner at different moments of the itinerary of a savory menu. In this issue, some chefs cross the border without a second thought. This is the case of Eunji Lee and her delicate and elegant individual pastries. Also Julius Persoone and his challenging chocolates, or young Russian Artem Grachev and his shrimp confit with avocado ice cream. As is this case of the master Jesús Escalera, who works magic to link a black truffle ice cream with the earthy notes of chocolate and the old leather-like perfume of vanilla. And why not?

Contents

THE EXCITING SUB-ZERO WORLD

Emmanuel Ryon. French refinement.

• David Wesmaël. The colors of flavor.
• Jesús Escalera. The essence of good ice cream.
• Artem Grachev. Depth and emotion through ice cream
• David Briand. The common sense of pastry.
• Eunji Lee. Dangerous innocence.
• Nuño García. Haute viennoiserie.
• Paul Yochum. Gastronomizing the donut.
• Joris Vanhee. Chocolate trails.
• Michal Kleiber. The journey.
• Raúl Bernal. A chocolatier on a bike.
• Pol Marginedas. When myth becomes chocolate.
• Ash Smith. A big hug on a winter’s night.
• Jiro Tanaka. Keep it deligant.
• Mohammad, Wassim and Omar Orfali. Twinning cuisine and patisserie.
• Julius Persoone. More rock ‘n’ roll than ever.
• Ronald García. What pâtisserie owes to Mesoamerica.
• Suzette Gresham. Creating memorable experiences for guests and staff is equally essential.

Tidbits

MALAYSIA, EPICENTER OF HAUTE PÂTISSERIE

• Wei Loon Tan. Malaysian accent
• Jeffrey Tan. Being a pastry chef to be happy
• Jer Yenn & Jia Yi. Two in equilibrium